City Info: Phát Diệm

Phat Diem (pronounced faht ziem) is a Catholic enclave in northern Vietnam, an interesting detour in seeing one pagoda after another. It almost comes as a shock to see crosses and the Christ-figure as you come into town, but the change of scenery is nice for the kids and it proves to be an interesting area to visit.

The Phat Diem Cathedral takes center stage with four smaller chapels, two on each side. The main chapel has several carving, including one of a civet, famous for their coffee 'roasting' abilities (more info). There's a mix of wood and stone used in the construction of the buildings, but the most famous is the Stone Church, made completely of local stone.

Behind the cathedral sit three stone grottoes, though I'm not sure that you can enter them, they were closed up when we were there. Fronted with intricate statues, these edifices are appealing to both Christian and non-Christian, alike.

The architecture is one of the most intriguing bits here, something that the adults (and perhaps the teens) will enjoy deciphering, with a mixture of French, Chinese and Vietnamese styles. Be sure to notice the roof line, the doors, decorations, carvings and layout. Each is influenced by one or more of the cultures and are brought together in style that is like nothing else.

The surrounding streets around the complex have a variety of shops selling a bit of tourist kitsch and local favorites. We found some Catholic trading cards (or so they seemed)--laminated photos of various saints and religious scenes. They also sell some of the best peanut candy in Vietnam. Check it out on the street that heads out to the right of the cathedral. The candy alone is worth the drive.

You can get here via taxi or rent some bikes in Ninh Binh and hire a local tour guide. Ask your hotel about planning the tours; they can be incredibly helpful.

Outside resources:

• Pilgrimage to Phat Diem
• Wikipedia: Civet Coffee